Jekyll2023-11-02T05:16:56+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/feed.xmlAtypicalEvery morning I wake up a new person, with new thoughts and new ideas and new memories. But there is a correlation from day to day. This correlation brings both joy and pain.
Alexei DrummondAusserberg - Baltschiederklause - Eggerberg2023-09-09T00:00:00+00:002023-09-09T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/alpine/2023/09/09/ausserberg-baltschiederklause-eggerberg<p>Another trip to Switzerland, another epic overnight hike in the Alps. This time we tackled
the long approach to Baltschiederklause (2783m) from Ausserberg. The team was
Tanja Stadler, Tim Vaughan, Alex, myself and two PhD students from Tanja’s lab (Marcus and
Alex). The early morning start from Basel involved catching a 6:03am train which after a
couple of connections delivered us to Ausserberg train station (~900m) about 3 hours later.</p>
<p>We had decided on an early approach because the first day called for about 1900m of ascent
over about 17km. The first few kilometres ascended through the outskirts of Ausserberg
village on cute little roads with no traffic and a pleasant temperature. We knew that the
day would heat up, but I was hoping that we would be able to climb away from the heat
throughout the day.</p>
<p>At the end of the road the obligatory hiking started with a choice: the tunnel, or a T4
section traversing steep terrain. Amongst our contingent there were fans of both options,
but in the end it was decided by a discovery that the T4 section was officially closed for
repairs and not currently as safe as a T4 designation would suggest. Although some of us
were disappointed, the tunnel turned out to be quite unique.</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-tunnel-team.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-tunnel-team.jpg" alt="Our team of intrepid climbers before entering a 2km tunnel through the mountain." />
</a>
<figcaption> Our team of intrepid climbers before entering a 2km tunnel through the mountain. </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="float-right-35">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-tunnel-team-in-darkness.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-tunnel-team-in-darkness.jpg" alt="Tunnel walking." />
</a>
<figcaption> Tunnel walking. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>We had known we might need to take this option, so we were prepared with head torches.
We needed them. The tunnel was dead straight but a full 2km long! The walking was
single-file walking with ample head-room. In some sections the walls were natural stone
with quartz seams and in other sections sprayed with concrete to prevent any loose rocks
from falling. One side of the tunnel was occupied by a “suone”, a channel of glacial river
water that is part of an old irrigation system to bring water to the sunny arid slopes of
Ausserberg and surrounds. These “suone” (or “bisse” in French) have been used for centuries
in the Valais region of Switzerland to provide irrigation to high villages that don’t have
closer reliable sources of water.</p>
<p>Beyond the tunnel the hike progressed gradually through green farmland nestled in the steep-sided valley
with jagged, barren alpine ridges beckoning us forward in the distance.</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-after-emerging-from-the-tunnel.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-after-emerging-from-the-tunnel.jpg" alt="The lower part of the valley shortly after emerging from the 2km suone tunnel." />
</a>
<figcaption> The lower part of the valley shortly after emerging from the 2km suone tunnel. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Shortly we passing through a camp ground complete with benches, tables and plenty of shade.
However it was not yet lunch time so we pressed on, crossing the river to the true left side
and continuing on up the valley. It was around this time that I recalled what a couple of
passing mountaineers had told us: the blueberries are excellent in this valley but don’t
start eating them until you are beyond the large bridge, as there are donkeys up to that point.
I was looking forward to eating blueberries but soon after this thought crossed my mind we spotted the
donkeys ahead of us, and realised we were not yet above the donkey line.</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-stunning-slab-panorama.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-stunning-slab-panorama.jpg" alt="Panorama of slabs in the lower valley just before midday." />
</a>
<figcaption> Panorama of slabs in the lower valley just before midday. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>By this time it was approaching noon and the day had heated up very significantly. There were
few trees left and as the sun started to beat down on us in a rather unseasonal manner we
started to worry about finding some shade for lunch. It was about this point where we
passed some stunning slabs. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to check if there were any
bolted routes :)</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-hut-team.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-hut-team.jpg" alt="Our team of intrepid climbers make it to the hut." />
</a>
<figcaption> Our team of intrepid climbers make it to the hut. </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-baltsschiederklause-team.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-09-baltsschiederklause-team.jpg" alt="Chilling in the early evening sun after a long day of hiking." />
</a>
<figcaption> Chilling in the early evening sun after a long day of hiking. </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="float-right-35">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-10-defying-death-suone-style.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-baltschiederklause/2023-09-10-defying-death-suone-style.jpg" alt="Risking life and limb to walk the suone channel as they used to do." />
</a>
<figcaption> Risking life and limb to walk the suone channel as they used to do. </figcaption>
</figure>Alexei DrummondAnother trip to Switzerland, another epic overnight hike in the Alps. This time we tackled the long approach to Baltschiederklause (2783m) from Ausserberg. The team was Tanja Stadler, Tim Vaughan, Alex, myself and two PhD students from Tanja’s lab (Marcus and Alex). The early morning start from Basel involved catching a 6:03am train which after a couple of connections delivered us to Ausserberg train station (~900m) about 3 hours later. We had decided on an early approach because the first day called for about 1900m of ascent over about 17km. The first few kilometres ascended through the outskirts of Ausserberg village on cute little roads with no traffic and a pleasant temperature. We knew that the day would heat up, but I was hoping that we would be able to climb away from the heat throughout the day. At the end of the road the obligatory hiking started with a choice: the tunnel, or a T4 section traversing steep terrain. Amongst our contingent there were fans of both options, but in the end it was decided by a discovery that the T4 section was officially closed for repairs and not currently as safe as a T4 designation would suggest. Although some of us were disappointed, the tunnel turned out to be quite unique. Our team of intrepid climbers before entering a 2km tunnel through the mountain. Tunnel walking. We had known we might need to take this option, so we were prepared with head torches. We needed them. The tunnel was dead straight but a full 2km long! The walking was single-file walking with ample head-room. In some sections the walls were natural stone with quartz seams and in other sections sprayed with concrete to prevent any loose rocks from falling. One side of the tunnel was occupied by a “suone”, a channel of glacial river water that is part of an old irrigation system to bring water to the sunny arid slopes of Ausserberg and surrounds. These “suone” (or “bisse” in French) have been used for centuries in the Valais region of Switzerland to provide irrigation to high villages that don’t have closer reliable sources of water. Beyond the tunnel the hike progressed gradually through green farmland nestled in the steep-sided valley with jagged, barren alpine ridges beckoning us forward in the distance. The lower part of the valley shortly after emerging from the 2km suone tunnel. Shortly we passing through a camp ground complete with benches, tables and plenty of shade. However it was not yet lunch time so we pressed on, crossing the river to the true left side and continuing on up the valley. It was around this time that I recalled what a couple of passing mountaineers had told us: the blueberries are excellent in this valley but don’t start eating them until you are beyond the large bridge, as there are donkeys up to that point. I was looking forward to eating blueberries but soon after this thought crossed my mind we spotted the donkeys ahead of us, and realised we were not yet above the donkey line. Panorama of slabs in the lower valley just before midday. By this time it was approaching noon and the day had heated up very significantly. There were few trees left and as the sun started to beat down on us in a rather unseasonal manner we started to worry about finding some shade for lunch. It was about this point where we passed some stunning slabs. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to check if there were any bolted routes :) Our team of intrepid climbers make it to the hut. Chilling in the early evening sun after a long day of hiking. Risking life and limb to walk the suone channel as they used to do.Grade 26 (7b+ / 5.12c)2023-03-01T00:00:00+00:002023-03-01T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2023/03/01/grade-26<p>In a couple of weeks it will be 4 years since my first outdoor lead climb.</p>
<p>After quite a long period of plateau in my outdoor performances I have recently managed to climb two
grade 26 climbs in the last few months:</p>
<ul>
<li>26th November 2022 - Fillet of Arnold (19 attempts) <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4sR6fISEp4">video</a></li>
<li>12th January 2023 - Wombat (11 attempts) <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzJ-toOwE70">video</a></li>
</ul>
<figure class="float-right">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2023-sport-climbing/2023-01-alexei-on-wombat.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2023-sport-climbing/2023-01-alexei-on-wombat.jpg" alt="Alexei on Wombat (26) at Wye Creek, Queenstown, NZ" />
</a>
<figcaption> Alexei on Wombat (26) at Wye Creek, Queenstown, NZ </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>I am super happy about these two climbs. They were both beautiful climbs and enjoyable experiences.
I initially found Fillet of Arnold mentally challenging as there are only 4 bolts for about 19 metres of climbing, so it has a much more run-out feeling than most
modern sport climbing routes in NZ. I managed to climb this route while I was on sabbatical in
Christchurch. It was a nice change to be able to go to the project after work and put in a couple of efforts.
It meant that it became my longest project in terms of days spent on it, since easy access and short approach times did not put a high price on multiple visits. It also lessened the pressure.</p>
<p>Wombat was a quite different prospect. We were on holiday in Queenstown and had limited time.
But it came together quickly and the route is bolted in quite a friendly manner except for the last easier section to the anchor.</p>
<p>Overall these two successes have given me a lot more confidence that I can continue to improve over the next few years.
I still have a lot of improvement to make in technique and movement, as well as finger strength. It is a slow but steady process :)</p>Alexei DrummondIn a couple of weeks it will be 4 years since my first outdoor lead climb.Return to Ruapehu crater lake2022-02-26T00:00:00+00:002022-02-26T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/alpine/2022/02/26/return-to-ruapehu-crater-lake<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2022-02-ruapehu/2022-02-26-ruapehu-crater-lake.jpeg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2022-02-ruapehu/2022-02-26-ruapehu-crater-lake.jpeg" alt="View of Ruapehu crater lake from the Dome summit." />
</a>
<figcaption> View of Ruapehu crater lake from the Dome summit. </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="float-right-35">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2022-02-ruapehu/2022-02-26-Alexei-at-crater-lake.jpeg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2022-02-ruapehu/2022-02-26-Alexei-at-crater-lake.jpeg" alt="Posing on Dome summit with the crater lake in background." />
</a>
<figcaption> Posing on Dome summit with the crater lake in background. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>On the weekend of 26th February 2022 I went for a solo mission to hike up to the Dome summit overlooking the crater lake on Mt Ruapehu.</p>
<p>I had stayed in the lovely Skotel the night before and was greeted in the morning by a gorgeous view of the second most prominent mountain in the central plateau, Mt Ngauruhoe (2291m).</p>
<p>It was a refreshing change to set out on a mountain adventure by myself, although not without some niggling trepidation.</p>
<p>The route to the summit is unmarked, but it is hard to go wrong as there are many routes up to the summit crater rim. What is more troublesome is the very loose nature of the rocks on the slopes, leading to potential hazards of rocks moving suddenly while moving over and through them.</p>
<p>Obviously poor visibility is also a major hazard, but the cloud around the summit had cleared by the time I made it to the crater rim.</p>
<p>I set out at a good pace from the top of the Sky Waka gondola at about 10am. I passed a party as I hiked up the Knoll Ridge and then dropped into the valley to follow the cairns in a more or less southerly direction.</p>
<p>I didn’t know any better, so when the cairns seems to peter out I headed straight up the slope due south until I reached the beginning of a long low cliff face running down the main slope which I decided to scramble on to the top of and follow up the slope to the summit plateau crater rim.</p>
<p>At the crater rim I got my first view of the summit plateau and the northern peaks of Tukino and Te Heuheu.</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2022-02-ruapehu/2022-02-26-te-heuheu-peak.jpeg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2022-02-ruapehu/2022-02-26-te-heuheu-peak.jpeg" alt="View of Tukino and Te Heuheu peaks from the crater rim of the summit plateau." />
</a>
<figcaption> View of Tukino and Te Heuheu peaks from the crater rim of the summit plateau. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>I had seen another party traversing the crater rim south west towards Dome peak, and I followed them until I caught up and passed them just after the next peak.</p>
<p>I arrived at Dome peak alone and had it to myself for 5-10 minutes. The view was beautiful but there seemed to be a lot less snow than I remembered there being on my last February visit to the peak nearly 20(!) years earlier.</p>
<p>I toyed with the idea of continuing up to the true summit (Tahurangi) but there seemed to be some glacial ice to traverse and I remember being told that crampons were advisable.</p>
<p>Eventually as more parties arrived the Dome peak became a little crowded. I enjoyed the view and the company for about an hour before heading back down to the gondola.</p>
<p>My elapsed time from gondola to gondola was 3h30m, with about 2h20m moving time. It was a wonderful day and I felt quite fit and not very tired from the effort. I resolved to purchase some microspikes for my Merrell hiking shoes and return for an ascent of the true summit in the coming weeks :)</p>Alexei DrummondView of Ruapehu crater lake from the Dome summit.First national climbing competition2021-08-07T00:00:00+00:002021-08-07T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2021/08/07/first-climbing-competition<p>So today I entered my first <a href="https://nibs.nz/">NZAC National Indoor Bouldering Series</a> event,
held at <a href="https://www.northernrocks.co.nz/">Northern Rocks</a>.</p>
<p>I was a bit shocked to realise that my age category in climbing (45+) is called Veterans!
Apparently I am already too old to be in Masters.
I am pretty sure that the age for Veteran athletes is about 60+ in running events, but maybe that is wishful thinking!</p>
<p>Anyway, there were 20 Veteran Males and I managed to come equal first on points with 55 points
for my 7 top problems.</p>
<p>I topped a black (V7+; 10 points), three reds (V4-V6; 8 points each) and three oranges (V0-V3; 7 points each).</p>
<p>I actually managed to flash the black and one of the reds (they were both slab problems which suit my skill set).</p>
<p>I took two goes on the other two red problems. The oranges I flashed as well. Overall my fitness is lacking, so getting them done fast was essential.
I tried a couple of other red problems but didn’t get them done after 2-3 goes and decided not to tire myself out.</p>
<p>My final position was second overall on count back, which breaks ties based on who did a larger number of difficult problems
outside their top 7. I had done only one other orange problem before deciding I wasn’t going
to improve my top 7 score. Rooky mistake, but good to learn it on my first outing.</p>
<p>The climber I missed out to was none other than Zane Bray, a local legend who also took out the Veteran class for the whole 2021 series.</p>
<p>My second out of 20 in the Veteran Male translates to 30th out of 130 in the Open Men category (27th for Zane),
so maybe veteran is the right name for it after all.</p>
<p>Anyway I had a great time, won a nice North Face cap and now I think I will enter a few more climbing events next year 🙂</p>Alexei DrummondSo today I entered my first NZAC National Indoor Bouldering Series event, held at Northern Rocks.Sport climbing in 20202021-01-01T00:00:00+00:002021-01-01T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2021/01/01/sport-climbing-in-2020<p>Alex and I were rock climbing with Fabio in Queenstown for the last 4 days of 2020.
The New Year has gifted us rain and a much needed rest day 🙂.
Otherwise we would have just kept climbing until Fabio ran away from us screaming.
The rain has also given me a chance to run my R code over my climbing log.</p>
<p>Despite the COVID-19 lockdowns Alex and I got a lot of climbing done.
We both climbed our first grade 24 and our first grade 25.
I also managed my first onsight of grade 22.
So we have made definite improvements since we started in 2019.
In the year 2021 I am hoping to crack grades 26 and 27! 🙂</p>
<p>Wishing you all the best for your goals in 2021!</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2020-sport-climbing.png">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2020-sport-climbing.png" alt="Summary of my 2020 sport climbing performance." />
</a>
<figcaption> Summary of my 2020 sport climbing performance. </figcaption>
</figure>Alexei DrummondAlex and I were rock climbing with Fabio in Queenstown for the last 4 days of 2020. The New Year has gifted us rain and a much needed rest day 🙂. Otherwise we would have just kept climbing until Fabio ran away from us screaming. The rain has also given me a chance to run my R code over my climbing log.Achievement unlocked: Grade 25 (7b / 5.12b)2020-07-04T00:00:00+00:002020-07-04T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2020/07/04/achievement-unlocked-grade-25<p>As I have said previously, my first outdoor lead climb was in March 2019, about a month before my 43rd birthday.</p>
<p>Soon afterwards, in mid 2019 I came up with the personal goal of
(cleanly) lead climbing at least five different climbs of each grade up
to 24 (7A+ / 5.12a) and one climb of 25 (7b / 5.12b) by the time of the
Tokyo Olympics in July 2020. The idea was that the grade 25 undeniably represents
an “expert” level of climbing. I think of this as the equivalent of a sub-1:30 half marathon, or
sub-3hr marathon time, which are often used as benchmarks for very good (amateur)
runners. Likewise in climbing, 5.12 (in the YDS grading system used in North America) has
become a magical grade of difficulty representing the doorway to elite-level climbing. Thus
there are books like “How to Climb 5.12” by Eric J. Horst, which was first published in
1994 and now in its third edition.</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2020-07-04-alexei-on-mutation-in-my-genes.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2020-07-04-alexei-on-mutation-in-my-genes.jpg" alt="Alexei on Mutation in my Genes (25) at Frog Pond, Waitomo, NZ" />
</a>
<figcaption> Alexei on Mutation in my Genes (25) at Frog Pond, Waitomo, NZ </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>This post is to report that I have achieved that goal a few days into the month of July 2020.</p>
<p>I managed to cleanly climb my first 25 (7b / 5.12b) on lead this weekend.
I am very pleased to report that the name of the route is “Mutation in my Genes”.
It is an appealing sustained technical limestone climb on small crimps and slopers with a
crux on either side of the fourth bolt.
The setting is a beautiful remote farm in Waitomo.</p>
<p>This climb became more of a project than I expected but I am very happy that it all came together today just before the rain set in.</p>
<p>It was my 4th attempt on my fourth day of projecting the route and my 16th go overall (I tied in 4 times each day for 4 days over about 2.5 weeks).
I guess I am a slow learner!
But also stubborn 🙂</p>Alexei DrummondAs I have said previously, my first outdoor lead climb was in March 2019, about a month before my 43rd birthday.An update on sport climbing progress2020-05-25T00:00:00+00:002020-05-25T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2020/05/25/an-update-on-sport-climbing-progress<style>
p.caption {
font-style: italic;
color: grey;
}
</style>
<p>My first outdoor lead climb was on 16th March 2019, about a month before my 43rd birthday.</p>
<p>Soon afterwards, in mid 2019 I came up with the personal goal of
(cleanly) lead climbing at least five different climbs of each grade up
to 24 (7A+ / 5.12a) and one climb of 25 (7b / 5.12b) by the time of the
Tokyo Olympics in July 2020. The idea was that the grade 25 undeniably represents
an “expert” level of climbing. I think of this as the equivalent of a sub-1:30 half marathon, or
sub-3hr marathon time, which are often used as benchmarks for very good (amateur)
runners. Likewise in climbing, 5.12 (in the YDS grading system used in North America) has
become a magical grade of difficulty representing the doorway to elite-level climbing. Thus
there are books like “How to Climb 5.12” by Eric J. Horst, which was first published in
1994 and now in its third edition.</p>
<p>I thought it would be cool to try to reach an “expert” level of
climbing ability in time to watch the sport in its first Olympics.</p>
<p>The problem I have with setting personal goals for myself is that if I commit to them
then they become an all-consuming obsession. Though the Olympics have now been delayed,
I am still trying to achieve the goal I set out for myself a year ago. This is a report on my progress.</p>
<p>Note: Since some of the climbs I have done (those in Squamish, Canada)
are graded using the Yosemite Decimal Scale (North American route
climbing), it was necessary to apply a conversion of these grades to the
Ewbanks climbing scale to compare them to the climbs that I did in New
Zealand and Tonga.</p>
<p>This analysis is based on data available from my public profile at
<a href="https://www.thecrag.com/climber/alexeidrummond" class="uri">https://www.thecrag.com/climber/alexeidrummond</a>.</p>
<p>This summary covers the period 2019-03-16 to 2020-05-25.</p>
<p>The number of route climbs (including attempts) during the period of
analysis was 399.</p>
<p>The number of clean climbs on lead was 226.</p>
<p>The number of hang dogs and failed attempts was 166.</p>
<p>The number of distinct routes climbed cleanly on lead was 205.</p>
<p>The number of distinct crags at which a route was climb cleanly was 24.</p>
<p>The figure presents unique clean climbs in four views: (a) by month, (b)
“grade pyramid”, (c) accumulated through time, (d) by crag.</p>
<p><img src="http://alexeidrummond.org/assets/2020-05-25-an-update-on-sport-climbing-progress_files/figure-markdown_strict/fig2-1.png" alt="Outdoor lead climbing - unique routes climbed cleanly (2019-03-16 to 2020-05-25)" /></p>
<p class="caption">
Outdoor lead climbing - unique routes climbed cleanly (2019-03-16 to
2020-05-25)
</p>
<table>
<caption>Grade conversion table</caption>
<thead>
<tr class="header">
<th style="text-align: center;">Yosemite decimal scale</th>
<th style="text-align: center;">Ewbanks</th>
<th style="text-align: center;">Difficulty</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.5</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">10</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">beginner</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.6</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">12</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">beginner</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.7</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">14</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.8</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">16</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.9</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">17</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.10a</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">18</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.10b</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">19</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.10c</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">20</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.10d</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">20</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.11a</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">21</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.11b</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">22</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.11c</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">22</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.11d</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">23</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.12a</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">24</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.12b</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">25</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">expert</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.12c</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">26</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">expert</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td style="text-align: center;">5.12d</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">27</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">expert</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>Alexei DrummondSport climbing in 20192020-01-01T00:00:00+00:002020-01-01T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2020/01/01/sport-climbing-in-2019<style>
p.caption {
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<p>My first year of outdoor sport climbing was 2019. I had started top-rope climbing indoors in December 2018. But my first outdoor lead climb was in March 2019. I fell in love with the sport and ended up climbing >140 routes outdoors in three different countries in that first year.</p>
<p>Since some of the climbs (those in Squamish, Canada) were graded using the Yosemite Decimal Scale (North American route climbing), it was necessary to apply a conversion of these grades to the Ewbanks climbing scale to compare them to the climbs that I did in New Zealand and Tonga.</p>
<p>This analysis is based on data available from my public profile at https://www.thecrag.com/climber/alexeidrummond.</p>
<p>This summary covers the period 2019-01-01 to 2019-12-31.</p>
<p>The number of route climbs (including attempts) during the period of analysis was 270.</p>
<p>The number of clean climbs on lead was 155.</p>
<p>The number of hang dogs and failed attempts was 108.</p>
<p>The number of distinct routes climbed cleanly on lead was 144.</p>
<p>The number of distinct crags at which a route was climb cleanly was 15.</p>
<p>The figure presents unique clean climbs in four views: (a) by month, (b) “grade pyramid”, (c) accumulated through time, (d) by crag.</p>
<p><img src="http://alexeidrummond.org/assets/figure/2020-01-01-sport-climbing-in-2019/fig2-1.png" title="Outdoor lead climbing - unique routes climbed cleanly (2019-01-01 to 2019-12-31)" alt="Outdoor lead climbing - unique routes climbed cleanly (2019-01-01 to 2019-12-31)" style="display: block; margin: auto;" /></p>
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th style="text-align: center">Yosemite decimal scale</th>
<th style="text-align: center">Ewbanks</th>
<th style="text-align: center">Difficulty</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.5</td>
<td style="text-align: center">10</td>
<td style="text-align: center">beginner</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.6</td>
<td style="text-align: center">12</td>
<td style="text-align: center">beginner</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.7</td>
<td style="text-align: center">14</td>
<td style="text-align: center">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.8</td>
<td style="text-align: center">16</td>
<td style="text-align: center">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.9</td>
<td style="text-align: center">17</td>
<td style="text-align: center">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.10a</td>
<td style="text-align: center">18</td>
<td style="text-align: center">intermediate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.10b</td>
<td style="text-align: center">19</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.10c</td>
<td style="text-align: center">20</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.10d</td>
<td style="text-align: center">20</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.11a</td>
<td style="text-align: center">21</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.11b</td>
<td style="text-align: center">22</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.11c</td>
<td style="text-align: center">22</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.11d</td>
<td style="text-align: center">23</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.12a</td>
<td style="text-align: center">24</td>
<td style="text-align: center">experienced</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.12b</td>
<td style="text-align: center">25</td>
<td style="text-align: center">expert</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.12c</td>
<td style="text-align: center">26</td>
<td style="text-align: center">expert</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: center">5.12d</td>
<td style="text-align: center">27</td>
<td style="text-align: center">expert</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>Alexei DrummondSport climbing at Whakapapa Gorge on the slopes of Ruapehu2019-12-23T00:00:00+00:002019-12-23T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2019/12/23/whakapapa-gorge<figure class="float-right">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2019-whakapapa-gorge/2019-12-21-alex-alexei-whakapapa-gorge.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2019-whakapapa-gorge/2019-12-21-alex-alexei-whakapapa-gorge.jpg" alt="Our first visit to Whakapapa Gorge crag and we love it!" />
</a>
<figcaption> Our first visit to Whakapapa Gorge crag and we love it! </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Alex and I spent a magic three days climbing at Whakapapa Gorge just before Christmas this year. Our main target was the sport climb called “Electric Earth” which is grade 23 (7A; 5.11c).</p>
<p>On the first day, after warming up on an 18 we each climbed to the top of the route twice with rests, going from bolt-to-bolt through the crux section from bolt 3 to just after bolt 5.</p>
<p>We both thought we would do it on the next attempt the following morning. But it wasn’t to be. We both failed on our third attempt. I managed to redpoint it on the 4th attempt, but in an extremely untidy style. But I was content enough to have sent it and in between Alex’s further attempts I onsighted another couple of routes of grade 18 and 19.</p>
<figure class="float-right">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2019-whakapapa-gorge/2019-12-22-alex-under-electric-earth.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2019-whakapapa-gorge/2019-12-22-alex-under-electric-earth.jpg" alt="Alex sitting under her favourite climb on the second day of our trip." />
</a>
<figcaption> Alex sitting under her favourite climb on the second day of our trip. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Alex tried seven times on the second day and her last attempt she climbed all the way through the crux and somehow got out of shape once she had already pulled onto the bulge and took a heartbreaking fall.</p>
<p>That evening I reviewed the footage of my send and decided that I wanted to have another go myself to get a tidier send. So we both went back on the final day determined to get to the top cleanly. I put up the gear to the fifth bolt first, and then Alex had her tenth go of the trip.</p>
<p>I sent it for the second time and much more cleanly on my sixth attempt overall. Alex got it shortly after that. We were both super happy :)</p>
<figure class="image">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2019-whakapapa-gorge/2019-12-22-view-to-ngaruhoe.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2019-whakapapa-gorge/2019-12-22-view-to-ngaruhoe.jpg" alt="The view over to Ngaruhoe on the walk down to Whakapapa Gorge crag." />
</a>
<figcaption> The view over to Ngaruhoe on the walk down to Whakapapa Gorge crag. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>What a wonderful location! It is a pity that the season for sport climbing is so short on this crag. There are a number of awesome looking climbs on the same wall and we plan to return for Ape to Angel (24) and others next summer!</p>Alexei DrummondOur first visit to Whakapapa Gorge crag and we love it!Another trip to the Colosseum at Mangaokewa2019-08-24T00:00:00+00:002019-08-24T00:00:00+00:00http://alexeidrummond.org/climbing/2019/08/24/another-trip-to-the-colosseum<figure class="float-right">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-alexei-when-cavers-go-climbing.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-alexei-when-cavers-go-climbing.jpg" alt="Alexei moving up to the fourth bolt of When Cavers Go Climbing (grade 21) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa, on first attempt of the day." />
</a>
<figcaption> Alexei moving up to the fourth bolt of When Cavers Go Climbing (grade 21) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa, on first attempt of the day. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Alex, Aiden, Fabio and I did an overnight trip down to Mangaokewa on Saturday.
We left Auckland around 7pm on Friday evening (after a quick dinner at Japanese barbeque restaurant Ken’s Yakitori) and arrived in Te Kuiti just before 10pm. Breakfast was muesli in the morning, followed by a coffee at the cafe across the road. Then we headed out to the crag, though not in a huge rush, as the winter mornings are cold.
The weather was good but it had been raining the whole week, so a lot of the crag was wet with seepage, but as usual the Colosseum was mostly dry.</p>
<p>The main target for the day was redpointing “When Cavers Go Climbing”, a really fun grade 21 (~ 5.11a) in the middle of the Colosseum, the main wall of Mangaokewa crag.</p>
<figure class="float-right">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-alex-when-cavers-go-climbing.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-alex-when-cavers-go-climbing.jpg" alt="Alex on third attempt of 'When Cavers Go Climbing'. This girl has stamina!" />
</a>
<figcaption> Alex on third attempt of 'When Cavers Go Climbing'. This girl has stamina! </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>We first warmed up on “French Ethics”, just to the right. This is a classic warm up (grade 15) that shares the same anchors with both “When Cavers Go Climbing” and “Dogamatrix” (grade 17).</p>
<p>My first attempt to redpoint “When Cavers Go Climbing” failed as I had slightly forgotten the sequence between the 3rd and 4th bolt. I had first tried this route a fortnight earlier just before the trip to Squamish. That time I very nearly onsighted it, but was pumped out and chose the wrong method of manteling onto the ledge. But I had done all the hard moves.</p>
<p>Alex and Fabio also both had goes at the climb. Fabio red-pointed it, and Alex got very close but couldn’t quite find a sequence she liked. After we had all had our first attempts, I managed to redpoint it on my second attempt.</p>
<p>The second time it went quite easily and felt really good to have worked out all the moves. Basically I just locked in the clipping stances, and treated the slopers in between as intermediates that I moved through rather than spending any unnecessary time on. It worked well. I also traversed right, just below the ledge, to make the move up on to the ledge much easier.</p>
<figure class="float-right">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-alexei-storming-the-gates-of-troy.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-alexei-storming-the-gates-of-troy.jpg" alt="Alexei on his way to sending Storming the Gates of Troy (grade 20) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa." />
</a>
<figcaption> Alexei on his way to sending Storming the Gates of Troy (grade 20) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Working routes in groups like this is really fun, because you can discuss the approach and get beta from each other which makes it a collective problem solving game, but with an individual performance component as well.</p>
<p>After lunch we had a look at another good climb on the main wall called “Storming the Gates of Troy” (grade 20). I had also tried that climb on the previous trip, and had hangdogged it at the low crux between the first and second bolt.</p>
<p>This time I had another go and again failed at the low crux, but I asked Fabio to be let down to the ground so I could immediately try again from the ground with the first bolt pre-clipped. I was just going to try the traverse to the clipping stance in the corner again, but once I got it I kept going and managed to climb the whole thing cleanly.</p>
<figure class="float-right">
<a target="_blank" href="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-aiden-leading-french-ethics.jpg">
<img class="scaled" src="/assets/2019-08-24-mangaokewa/2019-08-24-aiden-leading-french-ethics.jpg" alt="Aiden on his first ever lead climb, cruising 'French Ethics' (grade 15) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa." />
</a>
<figcaption> Aiden on his first ever lead climb, cruising 'French Ethics' (grade 15) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa. </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Totally stoked with this bonus redpoint!</p>
<p>To top off a very successful day, Aiden nonchalantly cruised his first ever lead climb, by climbing French Ethics (grade 15) again, but this time clipping the bolts. He had never done a lead climb before, indoors or outside, but I was confident that he understood the process and knew the French Ethics route really well. He looked super smooth going up, and he was really happy when he was lowered down from the top. But he did confide that he was over-gripping a lot on the way up from the adrenaline of not having a top-rope to catch him from above.</p>
<p>So, all and all the day was very successful. Alex was happy with her attempts on the climbs, but nevertheless demanded we return the next weekend so she could get her redpoint :)</p>
<p><em>Editor’s note: we did return the following week and Alex also got the redpoint of When Cavers Go Climbing. Yay! I did very little on that trip though, as I was deathly sick.</em></p>Alexei DrummondAlexei moving up to the fourth bolt of When Cavers Go Climbing (grade 21) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa, on first attempt of the day. Alex, Aiden, Fabio and I did an overnight trip down to Mangaokewa on Saturday. We left Auckland around 7pm on Friday evening (after a quick dinner at Japanese barbeque restaurant Ken’s Yakitori) and arrived in Te Kuiti just before 10pm. Breakfast was muesli in the morning, followed by a coffee at the cafe across the road. Then we headed out to the crag, though not in a huge rush, as the winter mornings are cold. The weather was good but it had been raining the whole week, so a lot of the crag was wet with seepage, but as usual the Colosseum was mostly dry. The main target for the day was redpointing “When Cavers Go Climbing”, a really fun grade 21 (~ 5.11a) in the middle of the Colosseum, the main wall of Mangaokewa crag. Alex on third attempt of 'When Cavers Go Climbing'. This girl has stamina! We first warmed up on “French Ethics”, just to the right. This is a classic warm up (grade 15) that shares the same anchors with both “When Cavers Go Climbing” and “Dogamatrix” (grade 17). My first attempt to redpoint “When Cavers Go Climbing” failed as I had slightly forgotten the sequence between the 3rd and 4th bolt. I had first tried this route a fortnight earlier just before the trip to Squamish. That time I very nearly onsighted it, but was pumped out and chose the wrong method of manteling onto the ledge. But I had done all the hard moves. Alex and Fabio also both had goes at the climb. Fabio red-pointed it, and Alex got very close but couldn’t quite find a sequence she liked. After we had all had our first attempts, I managed to redpoint it on my second attempt. The second time it went quite easily and felt really good to have worked out all the moves. Basically I just locked in the clipping stances, and treated the slopers in between as intermediates that I moved through rather than spending any unnecessary time on. It worked well. I also traversed right, just below the ledge, to make the move up on to the ledge much easier. Alexei on his way to sending Storming the Gates of Troy (grade 20) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa. Working routes in groups like this is really fun, because you can discuss the approach and get beta from each other which makes it a collective problem solving game, but with an individual performance component as well. After lunch we had a look at another good climb on the main wall called “Storming the Gates of Troy” (grade 20). I had also tried that climb on the previous trip, and had hangdogged it at the low crux between the first and second bolt. This time I had another go and again failed at the low crux, but I asked Fabio to be let down to the ground so I could immediately try again from the ground with the first bolt pre-clipped. I was just going to try the traverse to the clipping stance in the corner again, but once I got it I kept going and managed to climb the whole thing cleanly. Aiden on his first ever lead climb, cruising 'French Ethics' (grade 15) in the Colosseum at Mangaokewa. Totally stoked with this bonus redpoint! To top off a very successful day, Aiden nonchalantly cruised his first ever lead climb, by climbing French Ethics (grade 15) again, but this time clipping the bolts. He had never done a lead climb before, indoors or outside, but I was confident that he understood the process and knew the French Ethics route really well. He looked super smooth going up, and he was really happy when he was lowered down from the top. But he did confide that he was over-gripping a lot on the way up from the adrenaline of not having a top-rope to catch him from above. So, all and all the day was very successful. Alex was happy with her attempts on the climbs, but nevertheless demanded we return the next weekend so she could get her redpoint :) Editor’s note: we did return the following week and Alex also got the redpoint of When Cavers Go Climbing. Yay! I did very little on that trip though, as I was deathly sick.